1970
This article was written 55 years ago by Frank Amato. You will find it interesting to read how things have and haven't changed.
Read It And Catch Fish
Probably most winter steelhead fishermen use salmon cluster eggs (also called “roe”) for bait. They are earthy, smell good to some (myself included) and look good in the water. They catch lots of fish; it stands to reason that the flavor of the bait is more attractive to a steelhead than plain, cold, hard metal or plastic in bobber, spinner, or wobbler form. Therefore, the fish will be more inclined to take it.
Cluster eggs have their drawbacks also. First, the cluster of eggs if placed on an ordinary leadered hook will slip off when you cast out, therefore it is necessary to have specially leadered hooks, such as Wright and McGill make, that have loops in them so that the bait can be lassoed to or around the hook. It is not necessary for the bait to be both hooked and lassoed, a steelhead has a mouth the size of your clenched fist and he can open it.
Cluster eggs can be obtained in several different forms oil packed, fresh, or boraxed. Oil pack eggs catch fish but don’t seem to be as juicy as the other two forms. They do stay on an unlooped hook better then do either of the other forms. The average fisherman would do better to start with either fresh or boraxed eggs. If you live in or near a city that contains a wholesale fish market you can probably buy fresh cluster eggs there; sometimes they are even available in retail markets. At your local sporting goods store you can probably purchase frozen, boraxed eggs which are most popular and which catch most of the fish. Make sure that the frozen eggs you buy are as fresh as possible.
The boraxed eggs have tougher egg skeins (the skein includes the thin membrane that helps to hold the eggs in place) and tougher individual egg skins. Once the leader loop is lassoed around them they will stay together for a much longer time than will oil pack or fresh cluster eggs.
Most of the fresh cluster eggs you buy commercially will be from either coho or chinook salmon. However, in Oregon they might be from steelhead-trout. Oregon does not legally classify the steelhead-trout as a game fish because of the money and political pressure of the commercial fishing interests which have always overpowered the will of the majority of sportmen.
If you purchase fresh clusters eggs try to get the smaller eggs because these have a tendency to be more firmly attached to the skein.
Nightcrawlers are an excellent bait for winter steelhead. In slower streams that run between dirt banks surrounded by tall, dead grass and that reflect water that is dark with a silt bottom, such as Oregon’s Pudding River, nightcrawlers are excellent. They will also work in the typical, rock strewn, fairly clear, West Cascade streams of the Pacific slope. But in these streams most steelheaders prefer cluster eggs or artificial lures.
Nightcrawlers are the easiest and least expensive of the various baits to obtain. On a fairly mild winter eve as the rain is falling, or after, pick out a lawn (your own hopefully, or a permissible neighbors, who is perhaps a fly purist) take a flashlight and a can or jar and hunt for the “crawlers.” Kids especially like to do this and it makes them anticipate the morning’s fishing more.
Fast forward to 2025 and most of the worms you see are made of rubber.
Prawns are also used however rarely. Prawns are used more for summer-run steelhead, especially in southwestern Washington streams. Prawns are available in the grocery store. They should also be used with a hook that has a leader loop in it so that they can be secured.
There are also single salmon eggs which have been taken from ripe adult salmon and specially prepared for trout fishing. In low, clear water the steelhead becomes rather bashful to say the least. Anything that is larger than the size of two or more single salmon eggs or that is very bright will easily spook him. Now is the time to use a No. 8 hook and a single or double salmon egg. To compensate for the clear water you must also use a lighter pound test leader, possibly as light as 3 pounds if you want any action.
Boraxed salmon cluster eggs are a mess to work with on the stream when the temperature is around forty or if you have any skin allergies on your hands. Thus it is best to cut your boraxed skeins of eggs into small portions the day before you go fishing. Just take an old pair of scissors and cut into chunks about the size of your thumbnail. This is not only more convenient in that it saves you from a lot of mess on the stream bank; it also allows you to do more fishing. It is handy to carry your egg clusters in a bait box that clips to your belt.
Drift fishing with cluster eggs for steelhead is a very subtle type of angling. It takes much pleasurable practice and an assortment of experiences before one can say that he is an accomplished “drifter.”
When the adult steelhead enter the stream systems that raised and nourished them after hatching, they cease active feeding and begin to live off their stored energy. Why they take bait, flies and lures has not been satisfactorily answered as of yet.
If you are fishing a small stream that is low enough so that you don’t have to put any additional weight on your line to get your eggs on the bottom, then you can afford to let the steelhead “have” your bait for a prolonged period of time. It is exciting to feel the pulse of the fish as he mouths the bait and prepares to swallow it.
However, ninety-five per cent of steelhead drift fishing is done in streams that require the angler to use a weight. The steelhead hugs the bottom of a stream, thus it is necessary to go down after him. One of the best ways to do this is to use hollow pencil sinkers that can be clamped down on the end of a free piece of line. If you snag the bottom (and you will occasionally if you are fishing properly), the line will generally pull free from the sinker, saving the rest of your rig. In cold weather when it seems as though you have 10 numb thumbs, you will appreciate this “easy release” method.
When you approach a likely looking holding spot, drift the area closest to you first. Cast a few feet upstream; by the time your eggs are opposite you, they should be on the bottom. At this point, you will begin to feel a somewhat uniform bump... bump... bump, as your sinker bounces along the bottom with the eggs directly in front of it.
If a steelhead picks up your eggs, 90% of the time it will be a “soft” take. The feel of your line will be: bump... bump... slight jerks, STRIKE IMMEDIATELY!
A steelhead upon taking eggs to which a sinker is attached will not hold the bait as reliably as he would if the eggs were floating free.
Anytime your line stops and you feel a funny sensation, strike. The great majority of the time it will be a false alarm. On a steelhead trip, you are looking for one strike; when it happens, you must be awake and have quick reflexes; if not, you will miss many fish and probably become dejected about this type of angling.
Strong, sharp hooks are a must because the steelhead has a bony mouth and a drift rod has a sensitive, soft tip. After you strike and have felt the fish, strike again to insure a good hold.
In order to have a successful year, stick to one stretch of water on a particular stream and get to know it. Steelhead seem to lay in the same places from year to year if the stream is not changed by a strong run-off.
Spinning Reels
The overwhelming majority of steelhead fishermen use spinning reels. They are simple to operate (you can learn how to cast one in minutes), reasonably priced, and do the job well.
You can obtain a good, medium sized spinning reel. that will work for steelhead as well as trout and fresh water salmon angling for around $15.
All spinning reels have “drags” built into them which allow a fish to take out line even though you might be mechanically reeling in or holding the handle stationary. Thus, if you have a 12 pound steelhead on and you are using only 6 pound test line, by adjusting the “drag” so that it will let out line when 3 or 4 pounds of pressure are pulling at it - which a 12 pound steelhead would have no problem in doing‚ your line will not break.
After playing the fish about 15 minutes he will become so tired that you will be able to take command and direct him to net, gaff or the shore to be scooped up.
In selecting a spinning reel you should have it matched in size and weight to your rod. Ask your local tackle dealer to help you.
Line
Your line is the vital link between your fish and you. You should not scrimp when it comes to line. Under normal conditions for drift fishing the average pound test line used is 8 or 10. In extremely clear water your line should be 6 or 8 pound test. Some expert steelheaders go down to 3 pound test—anything heavier might spook the fish.
The plunker, normally uses a heavier line testing anywhere from 8 to 15 pounds. In low; clear water, because the fish are not moving, the plunker will do best to drift fish and search them out. This of course will require that he use a smaller diameter line which tests less.
Fishing line has had an extensive facelift over the last 55 years with the new fluorocarbon “invisible” lines and a resurgence in modern braided lines with newer tougher materials, UV resistance and thinner diameters for easy casting. And a plethora of new colors.
Tackle Box/Steelhead Vest
If you favor drift fishing and you like to follow the stream, wading it when possible, then your tackle carrier should be in the form of a vest. The steelhead vest has many different pockets, large and small, which will accommodate everything from lures to a small gaff and extra reel. For utility and ease of fishing nothing surpasses the vest.
On the commercial market there are many different makes of vests. One is supreme for steelhead fishing be cause of its design and quality construction‚ it’s the STEELHEADER fishing vest made in Portland, Oregon, by Columbia Sportswear Co. A lot of vests come from Japan, are cheap, and fall apart after a season’s use. They tear easily in brush and just plain do not hold up well. They are a bad investment. If you plan on seriously fishing for steelhead a quality vest will last for an untold amount of seasons and will also double for trouting.
For the plunker who likes to sit alongside his stationary rod a tackle box will do. The plunker is never bothered by having to go back across the stream or back to the last hole to get fresh eggs or another lure as does the drift fisherman who is always on the move. Thus, the plunker is not worried about retracing his steps and wasting valuable fishing time as, is the drifter.
It rains a lot in the Northwest during the winter steelhead season. It seems that on rainy, cloudy days the fishing is invariably better. Part of the reason that this is so pertains to water temperature. If it is rainy or cloudy the water will be warmer than if the sky has been clear at night allowing it to freeze. The mild, moist weather means warmer water; the steelhead will be more active.
If you are to enjoy your fishing you should be comfortable. A lightweight, parka type piece of raingear will keep you dry. Again, if you want comfort and your money’s worth buy a good piece of merchandise. There are many cheap models on which the seams will leak almost on your first day out.
Columbia Sportswear manufacturers the COHO parka coat which weighs only 9 ounces and can be conveniently carried in the STEELHEADER fishing vest. For the comfort afforded and the utility over many seasons we heartily recommend it.
Boots
There are many different types of boots that can be worn on the steelhead stream. The most popular is the hip boot which reaches up past the knee to the middle part of the thigh. If you are spin fishing then this type of boot will probably suit you well, for in most cases it will not be necessary for you to wade very deep. The hip boot covered with a parka, makes an excellent defense against rain. In this respect (rain) hip boots are recommended for the plunker‚ or rubber pants.
Chest waders are for more discriminating anglers. It is suggested that you start with hip boots first and then work up to waders - that is if you feel you really need them. Fly anglers especially need chest waders so that they can get into the proper position to present their fly.
The sole’s of your boots are extremely important. If you have plain rubber soles the footing on wet rocks will be slippery. Felt soles will give you a sure grip on slippery rocks. Metal cogs can also be purchased and strapped to the bottoms of your boots. These metal spikes will give you sure footing on slippery surfaces. Cheap boots are apt to have bad seams, the answer is obvious‚ buy a good boot and it will outlast the cheaper one.
Rubber boots or “wellies” are just as huge today as when first invented in the early 19th century. However, you would be hard-pressed in 2025 to see someone wearing hip boots. And “chest waters" are for “discriminating anglers.” Boy has that changed.
Drifting Bobbers
There are many different kinds of drifting bobbers that are easily obtainable in sporting goods stores throughout the Northwest. All bobbers of this type have many things in common.
Usually they have treble hooks that are more consistent in holding fish that strike than are the single bait hooks. Also, a fish that mouths around a tasty gob of salmon cluster eggs will probably have his mouth shut when you strike him with your rod tip. However, the unlucky steelhead that takes a drifting bobber type of lure will immediately realize that he has the sharp end of the deal and attempt to spit it out quickly. The possibility of any one of three hook points penetrating his mouth is a great advantage in this situation.
Drifting bobbers also come in many colors, the most popular being shades of red and orange. Virtually every color of the rainbow and every size, is represented and under the right conditions all will prove productive. Always keep in mind that as the water gets lower and clearer the fish get spookier and it becomes necessary to approach them with much smaller bobbers and less startling colors.
Bobber type lures always weigh less than the water, this is why they will float on the surface if not weighted down properly. Enough weight means that the bobber is allowed to drift along with the current about 6 to 18 inches off the bottom. Too much lead means too many snags, however, if you never lose any weight this means that you are not fishing deep enough. In the winter the steelhead stay near the bottom; you have to go to them.
Fluorescent Yarn
Many steelheaders that prefer to use boraxed (or otherwise) salmon cluster eggs also like to tie a short piece or pieces of bright red or orange yarn (fluorescent sometimes) on their hook along with their eggs.
There are two good reasons for this. First, there is more to attract the attention of the steelhead because the yarn will flow tauntingly in the current and under normal conditions steelhead seem to like this added frill, secondly, if one does lose his cluster eggs because the leader loop cuts through them or they are taken by a fish or fall off while casting, the angler is still left with an attractor‚ the yarn. Thousands of fish have been caught on nothing but yarn! Some anglers almost use nothing but yarn.
Weighted And Un-Weighted Spinners
When fishing for winter steelhead you must always keep in mind the fact that you take your bait or artificial lure to them‚ they do not come to you except on very rare occasions. In the cold water of winter the steelhead becomes very immovable and it seems the colder the water becomes the less active the fish are.
When using spinners for trout (weighted or un-weighted) it is common practice to cast them out and immediately begin to reel them in against the current. The trout, an active feeder which the steelhead is not, will many times chase the spinner and attack it while thinking it is a minnow in distress or some other morsel‚ not so Mr. Steelhead!
The habits of the winter steelhead tell us to take the lure or bait to him. The best way to do this is by using various ARCS in your casting. The lure must be close to bottom, it must not be pulled away from the fish and it must be the appropriate color.
Again, the rule the clearer and lower the water the smaller and less obtrusive colored the lure or bait.
The most popular and most productive weighted spinners have nickel blades, other colors are available and under varying conditions should be tried.
Modern spinners are very similar to their older cousins. The biggest updates are new colors and body shapes.
Select a piece of stream that you think or know to be good steelhead water, snap on a spinner and cast out directly across from yourself. Let the spinner sink as the current carries it downstream. After it has traveled a few feet you will feel tension on the line as the water catches the blade and begins to spin it. When close to the bottom the spinner should be allowed to swing in an arc through the productive area. After putting several casts to the area, step downstream about a yard and repeat the process until you have worked through the productive area. Then, change lures, walk to the head of the run, and go through it again. After several drifts move on to the next prospective place.
Many times I have fished alongside anglers who were using cluster eggs exclusively and not catching fish. I have pulled one or several fish out from under their noses in areas that they had just drifted eggs through. These anglers continued to use eggs almost exclusively and in doing so limited their catches drastically. To be continually successful a steelhead angler must be versatile enough to change methods when the fish are not receptive to what he has been using. Learn several different methods well!
Wobblers - Spoons
Spoons have three things going for them: they catch fish, are easy to work in the water and are cheap. The single drawback‚ you generally lose a lot of them if you are fishing properly, but they are cheap! You can purchase a good spoon for about 25c.
The average size for spoons is from 1 3/4 to 2 inches; they vary in size from 1 to over 3 inches. Generally they have a uniform shape as shown in the photograph. Individual coloring varies greatly, from passionate colors to more subtle tones. The most popular spoon is the red and white striped combination. Second in popularity would be either the nickle or fluorescent red number.
Spoons are handy in that they generally do not require any additional weight to cast (unless the water is extremely fast or deep or if you have to make an exceptionally long cast‚ which is rare). An attribute can also be a detriment. If pulled to slowly or allowed to drift free in an arc while not enough tension is maintained between yourself and the wobbler, it will dive and get stuck in the rocks or debris.
Spoons have become more elongated and have many more colors and finishes to choose from than in 1970.
For maximum effectiveness the wobbler should be worked close to the bottom (within 2 feet) and in an arc; fish the wobbler about the same way that you fish a weighted spinner.
Again, the point is stressed that the clearer and lower the water, the smaller and less colored the spoon.
In some colors, namely nickel and bronze, hammered metal spoons are available. These might have some advantage over the smooth metal numbers in that light is reflected off them in many more angles and thus the possibility of their having more attractiveness under certain circumstances should not be overlooked.
Snags And Sinkers
Snags are the curse of fishing for they take valuable fishing time away from you, lose tackle for you and sometimes scare the fish when you attempt to get the snag out by wading in the water or stumbling over rocks on shore.
In drift fishing there are several different ways of using lead sinkers. The drift fisherman wants his bait or artificial lure to drift along near the bottom of the stream, generally a bit slower than the current’s flow. He must judge how much lead to use, too much and he will snag, not enough and he will miss the fish which are near the bottom.
The angler can use an 8 pound test line and a 5 pound test, one foot long dropper line, to which the lead is tied.
My choice of sinkers for drift fishing is the hollow pencil lead. Again, a dropper line testing several pounds lighter than the main line is used. With a pliers you clamp on the desired amount of lead weight. If you get snagged most of the time a solid pull will free your dropper line from the lead. You merely reel in, clamp on another piece of lead and start fishing again. If the lead is clamped down too tight and you can’t pull the dropper line free, the chances are that the dropper line will break, but your bait or lure will be saved.
The plunker has many different forms of lead sinkers to choose from. There are two things that the plunker must keep in mind concerning his choice of lead. First, the lead must be either heavy enough or shaped in such a way that it will not roll along so the bottom, secondly, the lead must be firmly anchored so that the plunker can keep a tight line to his bait or lure so that he knows immediately when he has a strike.
If the steelhead hits an artificial lure such as a SPIN-N-GLO he immediately attempts to extract it, generally when the steelhead shakes his head after striking the lure, the combined pull of the taut line and lead sinker is enough to set the hook. However, the angler should set the hook again as soon as he can. If the plunker has too little weight and a slack line when he is using artificial lures, he will lose many steelhead. Sufficient weight and a taut line are a must for the plunker.
The Rod
Any type of rod (even a 2 1/2 ounce fly rod) will take a steelhead as long as the angler at the other end does not panic and try to “horse” the fish onto the shore. However, there are specially designed rods for steelhead fishing that give the angler the maximum in handling pleasure and that also help to increase the catch by telegraphing through the line to the angler what is happening at the business end.
In order make to a adequately cover the field of steelhead rods we must make a division, for there are really two types of streamside steelhead fishing‚ still fishing in one spot, called plunking, and moving along the river bank searching out the fish called drifting. There are different types of rods used for each type of fishing, although the occasional angler’s rod will double.
Today we have steelhead rods for drift fishing, float fishing, hardware fishing, plug fishing, noodle fishing, centerpin fishing, fly fishing and plunking. And I’m probably leaving something out.
Plunking
The plunker selects a likely looking hole, rigs up his rod, casts out, places his rod in a holder or forked stick and waits for a steelhead to find his offering.
Winter steelhead, as we have said before, are not active fish in that they will chase or go very far out of their way for a morsel bait or lure. Therefore, about the only time the plunker will experience good fishing is when the run is moving upstream or if he happens to cast his offering into or near a bunch of fish that are just sitting on the bottom waiting for spawning time to arrive or are resting in order to move upstream.
Certain water conditions favor the plunker. After a freshet has raised and dirtied the stream the drifter is least effective and the plunker takes more fish. This is because the plunker is probably using cluster eggs, possibly with yarn, and although the fish’s visibility in the water is drastically limited, because of dirt particles, the smell of the bait still gets through to the fish. Steelhead move upstream especially during and after a freshet, as the water begins to drop and clear, they seem to be most active then and take freely.
The plunker’s rod is generally shorter and sturdier than the drifter’s. It should be sturdier for several reasons. First, a plunker casts out with enough lead weight to firmly anchor his offering to the bottom of the stream. The river’s current will pull on the line and a strong, steady rod is necessary to keep its shape. Secondly, if there is a strike, when the plunker sets the hook he is not only pulling against the fish’s mouth but also against the heavier than normal weight. A rod with a “soft” tip, the kind used for drifting, will not do a satisfactory job in this case. For a good, solid strike under normal conditions, the plunker should have a sturdier rod. Thirdly, the plunker casts more lead weight than the drifter and here again the “soft” tip rod will bend too much.
Drifting
The drift fisherman needs a long rod that has backbone and also a sensitive tip. As his lead weight bumps along the bottom with the current carrying his bait or lure downstream in front of the sinker, he is continually feeling for a soft pick-up when the steelhead mouths his offering. The sensitive tip telegraphs to him, bounce by bounce, what is happening every second.
Both types of steelhead rods have long handles on them. In this way when you play your fish you can obtain the proper amount of leverage by holding the butt end under your lower arm from the elbow to your wrist. If you have ever taken a large fish on an ordinary spinning rod then you know first-hand of the convenience afforded the steelhead angler who fishes with a proper rod. Also, because of the steelhead rod’s weight and length, it is more comfortable to fish all day with because of the way the rod handle tucks under the lower arm and balances the rod’s weight.
The Wright and McGill Co., has designed a special series of rods especially for Northwest steelhead angling. The EAGLE CLAW POWERLITE series comes in lengths of 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2 and 9 feet. They are strong rods that have very sensitive tips that let you know when Mr. Steelhead is striking. They are available at sporting good stores and departments throughout the Northwest: check them first.
Where To Look For Winter Steelhead
To catch a steelhead you must work hard, that is, if you call fishing work. You must know what kind of water (holding places) to look for and then fish them thoroughly, intently and confidently.
Steelhead are large fish facing a steady flow of water. They must be in steady motion most of the time or be swept downstream. A steelhead can swim several miles in a day, he does not spend most of his time in fresh water traveling, however. The great majority of its time is spent in what the steelheader calls “holding water.” It might be recuperating from ascending downstream rapids before moving on or he might have arrived at his destination and just be waiting for spawning time to arrive. Because most of the fresh water time a steelhead spends is in this holding water it is absolutely necessary that the successful steelheader know what to look for.
The Lone Rock, Snag Or Other Obstruction In The Middle Or Side Of The Main Flow
As the river’s current sweeps past large obstructions it creates many areas of vacuum, places where steelhead can rest comfortably with the minimum of effort. Also, the snag or rock etc., protects the fish from one or several sides.
Generally he will select a position that will allow him to be next to the main current so that he can escape’ swiftly if any predators are near. Never pass up a place like this if the water is more than 3 or 4 feet deep and a real “V” is caused by the obstruction. You might be surprised! Fish carefully in front, alongside and behind such an obstruction.
Tony Amato hooked this steelhead in some heavy water. It was resting behind “the lone rock."
The Tail End Of The Pool
Steelhead also demonstrate a liking for holding at the ends of pools or holes almost immediately upstream from rapids. Possibly this is so because they have just ascended the rapids and need to stop in a place where the water volume will bring them more oxygen in less time as happens at the end or “lip” of a pool where the water’s velocity is greater.
Look for ledges or other obstacles that the steelhead can sit by for protection and rest‚ then start casting.
The lip of a pool is generally shallow, therefore, it is necessary to use the utmost caution in approaching it. Stay far upstream and make your first casts cover the near bank first (your side) then move up when you are certain that you have throughly fished the area nearest you. Steelhead live in the world of nature—eat or be eaten. The rumbling of rocks by waders or hip boots, your shadow, to heavy a line, your voice, too bright or large a lure‚ all these things and many more will keep you from being successful.
This coastal steelhead was laying in the tailout of this pool during high-water. Once the river drops it would have more likely been along the deep bank on the far side or hiding under riffles or deep structure at the head of the pool.
In The Pool
Once the steelhead has spent some time at the foot of the pool he generally will move into the deeper water closer to the head of the run. Here your approach need not be as cautious as at the “lip,” that is, if the pool is fairly deep and wide and the water is, not low and crystal clear.
If lying in the main body of the pool once again the steelhead will look for the most advantageous position, one that affords him security on one or several sides and a free path to escape into the main current if danger approaches.
The steelhead will sadle up alongside a boulder, ledge, snag or hug the bottom of the stream in a place where minimum effort is needed to hold his position.
For some reason steelhead do not like to hold over certain places in a river’s bottom, for instance, where there is only small, sand, pea or pebble type gravel. They prefer rocks the size of your hand to boulder dimensions.
The obvious problem for the angler is snagging bottom and other obstructions and the steelhead does not accommodate us in this respect. You have to go to him in his rocky lair, in so doing you will lose tackle, sometimes a lot. But this is all part of the interesting game.
In fishing a large pool, with either bait or artificial lure, make your first casts in the water nearest you. Many times steelhead are caught literally under the anglers nose. This last winter while fly fishing the Washougal I caught an eight pound steelhead on my first cast of the day. The strange part was that I had just dropped my fly into the water in order to see what it looked like. While the fly was sinking in about four feet of water I was stripping off fly line in order to make a short cast. As I went to lift the fly out of the water I felt several solid raps and struck. Immediately the steelhead took to the center of the river and jumped. After 10 minutes I landed him; it was the only fish I caught that day.
Steelhead usually move upstream in schools of from several fish to several hundred. Last winter on the Humptulips River in Washington about 25 anglers (plunkers mainly) limited out in one hole as a huge school moved in. Of course I wasn’t there to enjoy the good fishing.
If you see several anglers that are having success then fish near them if there is suitable water, not close enough to snag them, however. Use good judgement and be courteous.
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