In early 2025, after several years of anticipation since learning about it, I had the opportunity to visit Boggan’s Oasis on the Grande Ronde River in Washington. I’ve heard about Boggan’s with its breathtaking scenery and incredible fishery. Now it was time to experience it for myself.
The author, Joe Wrobel, with a steelhead caught on the Grande Ronde River.
Boggan’s Oasis has been a cherished destination for travelers and anglers since its opening in 1948 by Minnie and her son, Russell Boggan. Ownership changed hands in 1984 to Bill and Farrel Vail who operated it for the next 38 years. In 2022, Louis and Tia Villagomez purchased Boggan’s Oasis to continue the tradition of offering guided fishing trips on the Grande Ronde River.
My story starts as I meet up with Louis and Tia in Lewiston Idaho for dinner before following them to their home at Boggan’s Oasis. It was mid-January, and we had just participated as vendors in the first annual Steelhead Expo in Lewiston put on by Toby Wyatt of Reel Time Fishing. After finishing dinner, the drive from Lewiston would be roughly an hour. Up a mountainside with many switchbacks, across a long stretch of snow-covered flat land, then back down a mountainside for what seemed like the longest descent I have ever experienced in a vehicle. We dropped about 2,000 feet in elevation before arriving at Boggan’s Oasis.
Silhouette of the skyline when I arrived in the evening.
Arriving at night, all I can see is the silhouette of the high canyon walls against a moonlit sky. I hear the soft roar of the river nearby. I can feel a rush of excitement to finally be there. Louis shows me to the cabin where I will be staying for my visit. Tomorrow is sure to be a good day on the river no matter how it goes. The river conditions might be ideal, but it is early in the season. The plan is to launch a drift boat a few miles upriver, then drift back down to Boggan’s. Before turning in, I ask Louis if I need to set an alarm. Louis casually replies, “we’re on canyon time”. I like the sound of that. No further questions.
Inside one of the cabins at Boggan’s Oasis.
The log cabin is neat, clean, and well maintained. There are two sets of bunk beds, a corner bathroom, kitchen sink, microwave, and a door to get out. No TV here. That is not what I am here for. What more do you truly need? It feels exactly how a log cabin should feel. All I need to do now is tamper my excitement enough to fall asleep. A hot shower does the trick.
View of the Grande Ronde River as looking out from my cabin the following morning.
I wake up without the sound of an early alarm for the first time in weeks. I take my time getting out of bed since it’s so cozy and comfortable. I put my shoes on and open the door to step out but stop dead in my tracks. Not yet seeing to the left or right, the sight straight out the door is incredible. I am greeted by the steep canyon wall leading down to a clear view of the river I could hear the night before. I step outside onto the porch eager to take in the beauty of my surroundings and this is what I see.
The sun is just starting to peak over the canyon wall. I see about 10 bighorn sheep standing in some very sketchy places near the top of the canyon. I am already feeling the lure of the river with the urge to grab my fishing rod and run straight down to start fishing. I could do that, but instead, I am on my way to meeting up with Louis in the restaurant. We have our morning coffee and some delicious breakfast sandwiches before getting geared up for the river. We connect Louis’s favorite Clackacraft to the truck ready for Tia to take us up the river to the boat launch.
Louis’s favorite Clackacraft is ready to go as we begin our float down the Grande Ronde River.
I plan to follow Louis’s lead as a guide, but at the last minute, grab my spinner rod because I have attachment issues, and I can’t go fishing without casting a few spinners. Even though I make things like Mercurial Beads, the new Okie Drifters, and floats, my favorite fishing technique involves none of those things. There was one time when I tried leaving my spinners at home to focus on improving my other techniques. I did catch fish that day, but I remember driving home feeling like I didn’t get to fish at all.
As we arrive at the boat ramp, Louis tells me the river is a little higher than usual and visibility is down to about three feet. Louis is an expert fisherman and knows every rock in the river, so I trust he will know how to find us some fish. We will be fishing with fixed floats, down to a jig tipped with shrimp cured in Louis’s secret brine, and a trailer bead off the jig. While Louis is getting the boat ready, I walk a short stretch of the bank looking for some bitters while casting my favorite North Fork spinners.
With the boat ready, it’s time to float downriver. The first few runs we anchored at were a bust. Maybe a few takedowns, but maybe not. We keep progressing along while thoroughly working every inch of the river. We come to a wide stretch of the river and Louis says, “I absolutely murder them here”. My anticipation is growing as we drop the anchor and put on fresh bait. On my third cast, I am hooked up with a fast bobber down. After a good fight, we net a beautiful hatchery chrome steelhead. I shake hands with her long enough to take a few pictures, then send her on her way.
Anytime I catch a steelhead, I can’t help but think about the incredible journey it survived before meeting me in this spot. For instance, the steelhead returning to this stretch of the Grande Ronde have already survived the journey of first making it down the river system to get to the ocean as smolts. Successfully dodging and out maneuvering the many predatory fish and birds all along the way. If considering the nearby Lyons Ferry Fish Hatchery as the starting point for these Steelhead, there are roughly 487 miles of river separating them from the Pacific Ocean. Starting with the Grande Ronde River, they need to pass through the Snake River, and the massive Colombia River with a total of eight dams along the way. Each dam represents its own challenge of passing through the spillways or turbines without getting injured or disorientated. Once in the ocean, they must outmaneuver bigger predatory fish and sea mammals as well as the commercial fishing nets. Chances of a steelhead surviving to the ocean and back are typically less than 1%. And yes, all of this goes through my head for every fish I catch on any river system. It all adds to the beauty and my love of these magnificent fish.
All Inclusive Guided Steelhead Trips (509) 256-3372.
Front side of Boggan’s Oasis restaurant.
While still anchored in that same stretch of the river, we go on to net four more steelhead. It is an incredible experience to catch these steelhead while emersed in such scenic beauty. I wish I could stay in this moment forever. This is sure to become one of my most memorable days of fishing. I can’t help but think, to Louis, this is just Monday.
We decided to keep moving down the river. We arrive at a stretch in the river where Louis likes to backtroll plugs. Sure enough, we got another fish on, but this fish had other plans. He spit the plug after a short fight. By now, it is getting late in the afternoon. The sun is setting over the canyon wall and creating ambient lighting which appears to make the white boat glow. It was a strange phenomenon I hadn’t seen before. Maybe it serves as a warning to get moving before being caught on the river in the dark. We arrive at the takeout just below Bogan’s Oasis. While Louis walks up to get the truck and trailer, my job is to make sure the boat does not float away. I scratch my itch of casting spinners while looking for bitters. We got the boat loaded and now I am ready to go warm up.
UFO crash landing at Boggan’s Oasis.
I walk back to my cabin for some downtime where I take a quick nap. I can’t remember the last time I had a nap. That was amazing all on its own. Just as I am sitting up, I get a message from Louis telling me to come down for burgers in the restaurant. We finish the day with a casual dinner and social time. What a satisfying way to end the day! I wish I could stay for a week or more, but I will need to get up early in the morning to return home. I am already looking forward to visiting again, but the memories of this day are sure to last until the next time I can stay at Boggan’s Oasis.
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